A walk in Rome: The Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Maxxi Museum.
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Here’s your treasure map a.k.a the visual breakdown of our route today
Welcome to day 4!
Do your feet hurt yet? Amazingly enough, mine don’t but I have a deep desire to experience some air conditioning today. Let me explain… in Italy there is indeed air conditioning but it is not the frigid, antarctic blast we are used to here in the States. It’s more of a tease.. a “what might have been” moment in stores and coffee shops. Normally I HATE air conditioning but there is something about the heavy heat in Rome, combined with the number of miles walked in the sun that makes me nostalgic for goosebumps and the feeling that your leg hairs are growing even though you’ve just shaved (TMI? Ahhh… come on, you know exactly what I’m talking about here 🤣)
My mission on day 4:
Finding some local art to purchase (I ALWAYS search for original artwork made by a local at some nondescript shop when I travel.)
The Trevi Fountain and The Pantheon exterior (I did not book a ticket for the interior and there was NO way I was going to wait in the hours’ long line in the piazza where you are in FULL sun.) I know it seems insane not to visit the interior of the Pantheon but I had my reasons.
Visiting the Maxxi Museum
A good dinner (I have a separate post just for this dinner because it was so fantastic)
I decided that the Maxxi Museum would be my last stop , my reward for the miles I would walk this day (contemporary art museums= awesome air conditioning) so we are going to the Trevi first! Let’s go!
Trevi Fountain
Yowza! It is MASSIVE, it is elaborate and you can almost hear the siren call, beckoning you to it’s location. The problem is, HUNDREDS of other tourists hear this siren call too. The Trevi sits in a little piazza with several side streets that extend to/from it like rays of the sun. I wish that I could tell you that I had some sort of magical moment there but it’s hard to have any type of moment when you’re sharing it with everyone and their uncle and their uncle’s step-grandpa, their nanny, the nanny’s nanny, their aunt’s bestie, the bestie’s brother in-law, and every single travel blogger in Italy on this particular Sunday in early June. I knew there would be crowds so I was prepared but if you want to have a moment with the Trevi, you should go EARLY in the morning or late at night (when the fountain is lit up… now that sounds magical, doesn’t it?).
There is a street level viewing deck and then there is a brief staircase that you can walk down to get up close and toss your coin in. I had several locals ask if I tossed my coin in and I did not. I will return to Rome on my own volition, I didn’t feel up to pushing my way through the crowd to throw the obligatory coin. If you’re not familiar with this tradition… 1 coin tossed means you will return to Rome and I believe 2 coins tossed means you will meet the love of your life. I know a few single girls who might want to give it a whirl (I expect an invitation to your wedding if this ends up working and isn’t nonsense after all).
NOTE: please do not throw coins in other fountains in Rome. There are A LOT of fountains. A LOT! But it is only appropriate in select few, the most famous of course is the Trevi.
Still, I probably should have tossed one in because the money collected from the fountain actually goes to charity. The money funds everything from international emergency relief programs to initiatives supporting migrants and refugees in Rome. It’s estimated that $ 1.5 million dollars is collected every year! WOW! If you want to know more about the history of how this fountain helps others and how the luxury brand Fendi footed a $2.2 million dollar restoration, check out this fun article. You can read about the guy who stabbed himself in protest when the coppers put a stop to his thieving ( he was fine, btw) and hear about the beggar women who put a magnet on a stick to collect coins before they put the kaibash on that, lol.
I remained at the street level and I took a few photos from the side of the fountain (standing at front/center would have been like fighting your way through a mosh pit). I noticed the polizi standing nearby and I wondered to myself how annoyed they were with this spectacle. You might remember that I live in a major tourist area so I know there is a certain sentiment when things get wildly crowded. The Trevi was truly glorious, despite the amount of times I was bumped into and the intimate experience of the body odor of about 300+ people (that’s a low estimate) , including mine. We were ALL sweaty plus an odd mixture of annoyed and in awe of this place we’ve all decided to visit at the very same minute. I know without a doubt that every single one of us had a moment where we saw ourselves abandoning rational thought and diving into the regal fountain to cool off. I guarantee it. The only reason no one does is that you’ll be in a ton of trouble. I personally didn’t feel like being thrown in the clink, especially after the whole Amanda Knox saga. Keep that in mind if you temporarily lose sanity while visiting. We came, we saw, we conquered and it’s time to move along.
The Pantheon
I figured I may as well get the crowds out of my system for the day so from Trevi, I headed over to the Pantheon. It’s impossible to get lost because all one has to do is follow the throngs of people as you near the piazza where this monument stands. I reached the Pantheon from its backside and enjoyed the shade from its behemoth shadow before moving to the front of the building. This is where you are confronted with long lines of people waiting to get inside and oddly enough, several McDonald’s signs directing tourists who are achingly desperate for a beverage with ice.
One of the fascinating things about the Pantheon is how the city has been built up around it. Over time new construction and necessities of modern living have impacted how it is situated. It sits below street level but originally, the Pantheon would have sat high above street level, with five steep stairs used to reach it.
This sunken effect makes the Pantheon seem like a sentry amid the noise and pace of modern times. It is sturdy in appearance and seems almost stubborn in this setting. It has dug its heels in and has spent hundreds of years refusing to be destroyed like it’s predecessors. It is different than the other ancients in my opinion. Perhaps because it is not cordoned off like the Colosseum and the Forum are. It is just… there, right in the middle of the McDonald’s signs and it is insouciant. If the Pantheon was a movie character, it would be Clint Eastwood in “Gran Torino”… get off my lawn!
The Pantheon was built between 120-128 AD. This time period for construction tells us that the Pantheon was built under the reign of the Roman emperor Hadrian.
The name Pantheon comes from the Greek words pan and theon, which mean all and gods, so it is known as the temple for “all gods”. The Pantheon was actually built on the site of another Pantheon. The first building was built by Marcus Agrippa around 27 AD to celebrate the victory of his father-in-law, the emperor Augustus, at Actium over Antony and Cleopatra. However, this building was completely destroyed by a fire.
Domitian had the Pantheon restored in 80 AD, only to have it struck by lightening and burnt to the ground again in 110 AD. The remains of the Pantheon were left in place for nearly eight years until Hadrian became emperor. His building is the Pantheon that still stands today. I will add a more thorough description on my Historical Sites page for those who are interested in hearing about the features of this building. The “sentry” is worth reading up on!
I took several bad photos (remember, I am not great at photographing because I am waaay too involved in experiencing what I’m looking at and stopping to take a photo which will inevitably be photo bombed by hundreds of people is not my strength) and decided it was time to do some shopping. The streets nearby are beautiful and inviting. They are also filled with shops and restaurants geared towards tourists. If you see a restaurant with misters out front and/or waiters trying to sell you on the place, run the other way. It will not be an authentic food experience.
I noticed a paper store and being an artist with an addiction to all things art supplies, I ventured in. It smelled of leather and paper (of course) and I knew right away I would be taking something home from this shop. They have loads of beautiful hand made leather journals, many include thick, handmade paper! Wooooohooooo! They sell bottles of ink, dipping pens, and leather purses in the back room. I spent a lot of time in this store because I wanted to buy everything. My brother and his wife had sent me some birthday $ so I had a green light to spend a little more than I normally would. I finally decided on a leather journal with handmade paper, ink and a dipping pen. The woman at the register asked if I would like my initials embossed on the journal. I asked how much extra? “$15 euro extra”, she replied. No, I say, I had better not. And then I realized that this was a special treat that I would never have the opportunity to buy again (or at least until my next visit) so I ended up ordering the extra service. She said it would be a few hours because the guy that does the embossing was not in. I did not want to hang out for a few hours so she gave her guy a call and he would be finished with it in an hour. Lucky for me a gelato shop was right across the avenue!
I admit to not understanding the obsession with gelato here in Italy until I experienced the long walks in the heat and it became crystal clear why this thing is a thing….This particular gelato shop had so many flavors it was overwhelming so I decided on the chocolat-iest choclolate flavor and “blanca” which is not vanilla, it is more bitter (in a good way). Refreshed from my gelato and thrilled with my art supplies, it was time to go and find some local artwork. I am not sure why I had such a hard time finding anything on this trip but Andrea recommended I go to an art and antiques flea market that was along the banks of the Tiber River and to visit Via Margutta and Rippeta area. I did not find any art in the Margutta/Ripetta shopping area even though these streets are known for their shops but none that I could find were independent artist shops. What I did find was Profumum Roma, a parfumerie that is LEGIT. I am not a girly-girl, I do not really spend money on fancy things but for some reason, I went into that store and it was a delight! The attendant was incredibly knowledgable and helpful and you could tell that this family owned company was passionate about their perfume. I tried different scents and just could not decide! The woman told me it is best to walk around for a few hours and see how each scent (one on each arm from my two favorites) interacts with your skin because it is different for everyone. The perfume was expensive so this suggestion gave me an easy out and I continued on my journey. She sent me with scented cards of my favorites, each in their own fancy ziplock bag so I could sniff away as I considered which one to purchase. I could tell by the look on her face that she did not think I would return (I looked like a hot mess! And I have a large tattoo so I do not look like the ultra-classy patrons she is likely used to). Honestly, I did not think I would be making a special trip back to that neighborhood just for perfume but I was happy to be smelling good for the day.
Spoiler alert! I ended up going back at the end of my trip to pick up a bottle after my husband said the magic words “Buy it! Treat yourself to something special” after I mentioned how lovely the perfume was but that the cost was high. I told him the whole trip was something special so I probably didn’t need perfume but…. I bought it and regret not getting both scents I like! They do not ship to the U.S. but there are very select few vendors here that carry a few of their scents (of course, no one carries my second choice that I’ve become obsessed with getting my hands on since I returned. A reminder to buy something that speaks to you right then and there… I have regrets and you shouldn’t ! ).
Visit Profumum Roma's website and read their story.
Smelling like Sophia Loren (but definitely NOT looking like her), I continued on to Andrea’s second suggestion which was a long walk but the location aligned with my route plans so I headed off in search of the perfect art piece.
Mercato di Ponte Milvio
The antiques market in Ponte Milvio is the most important and one of the most select flea markets in Rome. Launched almost twenty years ago, the Mercatino antiquariato di Ponte Milvio takes place twice a month in the area of Ponte Milvio, all year long (except in August). The flea market starts from the right side of the bridge, and spreads along the way Capoprati, following the Tiber river down to the Duca D’Aosta bridge (parallel to the bike path). The scenery makes the Mercatino antiquariato di Ponte Milvio antique market in Rome a trip on its own. Allegedly, over 150 professional merchants gather from nearby regions of Italy. Many of the vendors found at this antique market are antique dealers selling high-quality wares, collectors, art and antiques amateurs. But Ponte Milvio also attracts artists, painters, sculptors, decorators, artisans, designers, and furniture experts.
This was NOT the case on this particular Sunday. There were very few vendors which was disappointing but I had fun talking to artists and peddlers! The first vendor I visited had works of art from the 1800’s all the way to contemporary works. We chatted about how he sources the pieces and about art in general. There was nothing in his tent that really spoke to me though so I moved on.
The next vendor I walked past was my favorite. The artwork of Piero Petracci was superb (a few other artist/vendors were not that great). I approached his tent, took a peek and then moved on but that artwork stuck with me so I turned around and went back. The artist was sitting in a chair reading a book and I decided to bother him. We had a lengthy chat about his work which was very high caliber. I said it really belongs in a gallery. Turns out he is in some galleries in Europe so I though it was interesting that he was here at this quaint market. Many of his pieces are made out of concrete, some with wire and others with rope. All are sculptural regardless of how they are exhibited. I asked about his process and it was very interesting. Of course, these pieces were way too large and heavy to be able to take home with me but I was so tempted to somehow bring one home. He allowed me to take photos so I’ll share them with you (I should have taken more!). You can find him on Facebook if you’d like to view his portfolio. I left the market not having found any artwork to take home (but I did find a gorgeous hand embroidered table cloth that does not fit any table I own but was so beautiful and only $10 euros so it had to come with me).
From here, it is an *almost short walk to the MAXXI Museum in the Flaminio District. It is my last planned stop of the day where contemporary art and that all too valuable air conditioning are beckoning.. I know most people come to Rome for the ancient ruins and the Renaissance Masters but I can’t recommend the MAXXI enough!
MAXXI Museum:
Imagine for a moment that you are a female architect and/or artist and you’ve been chosen to design a premier contemporary art museum. It’s a pretty big deal! Politics aside, it is just the plain truth that female artists have had to REALLY fight for anything near the accolades our male counterparts have enjoyed. Just ask the Guerilla Girls (they are a group of anonymous female artists who have consistently called out the art world for the lack of attention female artists receive. They wear gorrila masks… to do guerilla warfare in the art world. Note the two different spellings and connotations… which is obviously done for a reason, “girls”) .
The architect of the MAXXI Museum is Zaha Hadid (1950-2016) born in Iraq and later a resident of the U.K . It was completed in 2009 and it is an incredible building! Once inside you are immediately enveloped in an immersive experience. The ticket “booth” is shaped like a large fountain of sorts (this description is based on my own impression not necessarily the factual plans for the building) and you hear elements of water from the speakers overhead. The building flows in such a way that it becomes continuous and moving from gallery to gallery knits all of them together as one experience. If you’d like to read more about the building specs, visit this architecture magazine article.
The Maxxi has a pretty cool ticket option called the Legendary Ticket which allows you 100 year access for a whopping $15 euro! If that isn’t a reason to return to Rome, I don’t know what is! I think this is the bees-knees and the ticket itself is gold, so when they hand it to you in an envelope, you really feel like singing “I’ve got a golden ticket!” as though you’re Charlie. I was this close to performing that little number right there in the middle of the museum but imagined seeing my face on the local news “crazy American tourist causes a stir at museum in Rome” and just sang it in my head instead.
There were some great exhibits on and my ticket came with the special viewing of Sabastio Delgado’s photography exhibit, entitled “Amazonia’. In all honesty, this exhibit was the one I was least excited to see and almost skipped it. That would have been a MASSIVE mistake because this show ended up being the most engrossing and phenomenal of the whole museum. You enter the gallery through a set of doors and the darkness inside consumes you. You are immediately transported into something very special. Indigenous Amazonian tribal music is playing sometimes at a whisper and other times at a crescendo. The large photographs of the Amazon wilderness hang from the ceiling, floating and are GLOWING. The crisp details in black and white create a stark contrast and the darkness of the room allows you to focus solely on the imagery. We are so used to seeing photographs hanging on the walls of a well lit gallery so this set up is intense and I might have lost my mind a little because I was floored by the visuals.
The cast shadows of the frames on the floor were really interesting to me. It felt as though they were the ghosts of these places he photographed and seemed a direct comment “what we have now will be lost to us soon”.
I left this exhibit with a certain sadness because the Amazon is disappearing and this artist dedicated himself to visually describing the different ecosystems and lifestyles found in this amazing place, as if begging us to understand the beauty , the destruction and to take action with immediacy. My camera can do no justice to this exhibit but here are a few shots for you to view.
Another artist I’ll quickly mention is Nedko Solakov. His work was really fun because it was a combination of imagery and writing. His exhibit is located in a corner on the main stairwell and he had big plans for it but then Covid hit and then Ukraine so his plans shifted and we see that in his musings. It was really fun to read his quips as you linger on the stairs.
I hit up the museum cafe on the way out and the book store/gift shop which is of course, overpriced and mass produced but I grabbed a few trinkets and a book on Zaha Hadid. It was time to walk back to the Penthouse. I needed a rest and freshening up before dinner.
