The best Eats in Sorrento: Pizza and Delizia al Limone
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But first…A summer storm in Sorrento:
This was to be my last full day in Sorrento and I was fairly tired so my plan was to have a day by the pool (there aren’t any good beaches in Sorrento itself so the pool was the best option). One of the main reasons I had booked Residence Le Terrazze was specifically for the view from the pool so I lathered myself in sunscreen and prepared to head down with my sketchbook. Just as I finished getting my swimsuit on, a massive thunderstorm rolled in quickly and unleashed its bravado.
Ok, change of plans! No pool today! Instead, I stood on the terrace and enjoyed the booming thunder and cracking lightening, a giant smile on my face.
Summer storms are one of my favorite things on this planet to experience (and they always make me think of my mom because she loved them , too. She would stand on the deck and whoop! with every lightening bolt. I know she was there with me in Sorrento that day).
The cool breeze and thick energy of the storm were a salute to feeling alive and grateful. After the deluge, the rainbows burst through the valley in front of me, arcing their way from hilltop to hilltop. I decided to head to town (Sorrento) via shuttle to search for that Limoń Delizie cake Giovanna had told me to try and of course, a pizza.
Pizza is serious business here (much like the coffee):
I stopped at Aurora Pizzeria in Piazza Tasso. The restaurant has been around since 1898 so obviously they know what they are doing. It was busy with tourists and I was game for people watching and ready for my “Eat, Pray, Love” pizza moment.
Reader… the pizza we have here in the USA is NOT pizza. It’s sloppy, greasy, and like most things in the States, it’s a little over the top.
In Italy though… Huzzah!
My waiter is a professional. He deftly handles the tourists like Flea handles the bass guitar. He’s cracking jokes and every time a person pays with a credit card, he holds the card reader to his ear as if it’s a phone and says something witty in broken English (I 💯 know what is going through his mind… if you’re a server in a touristic area you know, too).
He comes to my table “Ahh, bella donna” (and something else I didn’t understand) and I place my order for a Margherita con Salame Napoletano. As I waited for it to be delivered, I noticed the folks next to me each had a pizza for themselves.
”There’s absolutely no way I can eat a whole one by myself”, I thought and if I’m being honest, I was secretly a little judgmental about the fact that so many people were stuffing their faces with an entire pizza. Little did I know (and was promptly put in my place)…..
It was INCREDIBLE!
This picture does not accurately show the size of this thing. It’s waaaay bigger.
The cheese had a lovely bubbly crust, the ingredients fresh and cooked to absolute perfection. I ate all but 1 slice!! That’s saying something because I am little and generally can’t eat large meals. You should view their menu and visit the Aurora if you are heading to Sorrento. The pizza was the best meal of my trip.
The family next to me tried ordering 2 pizzas to share between mom, dad and 3 littles. The waiter was not having it. He said “NO. One pizza for one person or you cannot sit here.” If you are planning to eat pizza here, plan on ordering your own. They have a full menu so if pizza is not your jam, there’s something fro everyone at the Aurora.
The hunt for the Delizia al Limone….
I meandered through the streets of Sorrento where the abundance of Lemoncello and Linen clothing shops are plentiful. I stopped at a market and bought fresh fruit, some salami, cheese and flat bread for dinner later and then headed out in search of the lemon delight cake.
Aha! Jackpot!
Wandering into Primavera Gelateria. a bustling and very friendly atmosphere, one is overwhelmed by the loads of gelato options to choose from and sweets that tempt every tastebud two times over. It was there in the far left corner of the glass case that I saw the cakes I had been hoping for….
I ordered my cake and watched as they shaved fresh lemon zest on top. The woman at the register said to me “You-ah make-ah a good choice-ah” and smiled with approval. I think most tourists go for gelato and this particular dessert is a specialty that perhaps many aren’t acquainted with. I had planned to save it for later in the evening but ended up eating it on a bench while waiting for the hotel shuttle. It was, much like the pizza, INCREDIBLE. The lemon flavor a delight to the palate and refreshing in the summer heat. I should have ordered five more! Giovanna was right and I’m glad I followed her advice (to read that story, visit my Positano story. My 115 lb frame was now weighted down by an entire pizza (-1 slice) and a cake at this point. I was deliriously content.
From their website……
The owner, Antonio Cafiero was born and works in Sorrento. The initiation into the art of confectionery was the work of father Mario. His patisserie, cocktail of flowers, fruit and delights, is a meeting point for famous personalities from the world of entertainment and culture.
The unstoppable love for him Sorrento can be understood when he says: "The scent and the fresh air of the gardens, the sea breeze for 'whim' made them all delighted".
On the wings of a conscious professionalism, he brings his favorite dessert in triumph, the Delizia al Limone, first at ONE MORNING then at CIAO ITALIA and finally at the BIT "Borsa Italiana del Turismo '93" in Milan.
All the most famous VIPs of the nation know him for his amiable hospitality; from Sofia Loren, Carlo Verdone, Mario Cipollini, Antonello Venditti, Manuela Arcuri to the honorable Fausto Bertinotti ... Just to name a few.
If it’s good enough for Sophia Loren, it’s good enough for me!
That evening I ate my simple dinner and packed everything up. I was headed back to Rome the next morning where I would stay for one more day before flying out.
Note: The lemons in this region are humongous…. they are the size of a pee-wee football!
I wish I had been able to extend my trip with 2 additional days as I would have liked to visit Capri and settle into this area a bit more. A day trip to Pompeii would also have been epic BUT, I now have an excuse to come back again (as if I really needed one lol).
An itinerary suggestion for you:
If you are planning on visiting the Almafi coast, I suggest the following 4-5 day itinerary:
Stay in Sorrento rather than Naples. Naples is larger and there’s more to see but the trade-off is that it is grittier and you need to watch your belongings (and self) much more closely. My driver told me to turn my rings around (so the diamond wasn’t visible) and to keep a VERY close eye on my bags at the Naples train station. Tourists from Alabama that I met on the train back to Rome were also given the same instructions, more or less. This is not to say that Naples is unsafe but it is definitely a different vibe than Sorrento and there are neighborhoods that you probably shouldn’t wander into without being aware of your surroundings. I would probably just do a day trip/afternoon in Naples and stay in Sorrento (or other small towns along the coast).
1.
Visit Positano and hike the Path of the Gods. It is hard to get around in the summer traffic and the roads are very narrow so plan accordingly or hire a driver to get you around efficiently. If you’re REALLY brave, you can rent a scooter but if you spend more than 5 minutes watching how traffic flows and the aggressive driving skills that are required, you may end up like I was: in awe and slightly terrified. I am not that brave. If you want to know more about the Path of the Gods, check out my travel story “Hiking above the fray and visiting Positano”.
2.
Spend a day in Capri. Catch the Hydrofoil in Sorrento and meander the island. The Blue Grotto is a popular site to visit. You can find more information on how to visit by checking out this site.
3.
Take a day trip to Pompeii. There are loads of guided tours if that is your preference or go on your own if you have a rental car.
4.
Visit some of the other small towns along the coast if you want to avoid the crowds in Positano but still want all of the same beauty. Not sure which one to visit? Check out this resource for some ideas!
5.
Spend an afternoon in Sorrento (because you need to get that pizza and cake! Hello!)
You can accomplish all of this in a leisurely 4-5 days, especially if you are staying very near Sorrento center. The hydrofoil and ferry makes getting around very easy but do make sure you know the time tables for each so you don’t get stuck!
Next week I will share with you my lasting impressions of Italy, how to spend your last 24 hours in Rome and end our trip on a bitter-sweet note.
If you’ve had a Delizia al Limone , drop a comment below! I’m curious to hear what your tastebuds had to say!
