The village of Goizueta & the history of the Basque farmhouse
Our stay in a quintessential Basque village
Euskalduna, CC BY 3.0
There has always been this feeling of yearning (that’s not an adequate word, it goes waaay beyond that) when I have considered how badly I want to see the world. Not long ago you could find me on the sofa binge watching Rick Steve’s Europe, anything Bourdain and Samantha Brown, dreaming with an anxiety inducing desire to travel.
I am incredibly lucky that I am now able to voyage beyond the living room. Just thinking about planning a trip gives me a literal feeling in my chest and I’m not exaggerating when I say that I almost feel breathless.
You know, like one of those fainting ladies of the 1800’s? They probably fainted because they couldn’t breath in their corsets but I can feel a similar vice grip on my respiratory system at the mere thought of visiting a place like the one I am taking you to today.
Nature and I are good pals. Any time I travel, I try to seek out quieter areas in between visiting cities because I need need a break from people, noise and that amount of energy. Lucky for us, our good friend and host on this leg of the trip lives in an incredibly picturesque village in the Navarra province of northern Spain, about 45 minutes outside of San Sebastián.
This area of Spain borders France and the Pyrenees and is visually stunning. You immediately feel yourself sink into relaxation the minute you arrive.
Goizueta
If this view doesn’t give you heart palpitations, I don’t what would. Gorgeous!
The road to Goizueta is lined with lush forest as you wend your way through the foothills. This area is wonderful for bicyclists and you might want to check AllTrails for some hiking suggestions in the this area as well.
Goizueta has a total population of 758 people and gets its name from the Zubi Haundi bridge, which joins the two banks of the Urumea River and the two neighborhoods into which the town is divided by the river. Etymologically, the name comes from the Basque goi (high) + zubi (bridge) + -eta (suffix that indicates place of); y means place of the high bridge .
You will not find much shopping or things “to do” here in terms of museums or city-life but that is the point of visiting a place like this. There are outdoor parks and monuments in the vicinity though and I’ve included some activities and resources at the end of this article for you. Tourism has grown in this town since I visited and there are several restaurants now and a few lovely looking hotels but it is still quaint and a perfect get away. You will delight in appreciating your surroundings for what it is (quite, beautiful, slow paced). 95% of the population speak Basque and most also speak Spanish…. English on the other hand… likely not as prevalent.
As we drove along, I noticed that the style of the houses were very unique and had a touch of French influence (or it seemed so to me and this makes sense as this area borders France). The homes were VERY charming in appearance and made the view even more romantic than the countryside already was.
Driving through the heart of Goizueta
Exte
The Basque word for “home” is Etxe and it is one of the oldest words in the Basque language. The meaning goes beyond just the definition of “home” as it also represents the house where a particular family originated. They are often passed down intact and undivided through families from generation to generation, another reason for the longevity and importance of the etxe within Basque culture. Also known as baserri, these homes are the equivalent to our farmhouses here in the states.
Each home traditionally features an exkatz, a bigger room providing passage between the house and the barn. Animals often rested below so that their body heat warmed the area.
Wood used to be the primary building material though the homes in the Navarre style are comprised completely of stone and lime stone facade. The use of stone as the prominent building material became popular after Goizueta burned down twice during the middle-ages.
They are a part of the rich cultural heritage of the Basque region and the passing down of the home and property through the family is taken seriously. There are superstitions and cultural traditions for the homes such as placing dried silver thistles (called eguzkilore) to the doors of a baserri for good fortune. Folklore has it that certain unwelcome spirits such as laminas, witches or devils only operate at night and attaching this flower to the door would lead these beings to assume the sun was shining on the baserri and therefore stay away.
A home on the hill
Our friend’s home is situated just outside of town, a short drive up the hill and into the peaceful countryside. His home was recently constructed (he had it build using very interesting building methods which allow the air in the walls to pass through a honeycomb-like structure, increasing the insulation properties). While his house is reminiscent of some of the traditional characteristics, it is not a stone and limestone home and it is just as unique and beautiful. We were in paradise!
The house just above Jauma’s was for sale and we had a spark of enthusiasm for purchasing it and restoring it (unfortunately we are not trust-fund kids so that dream died within 24 hours).
It is very peaceful here with only the sounds of sheep and goats and their bells as they graze the open pasturelands. One needs to use caution on these side roads as you will often come across a herd of sheep making their way across them.
Food, friendship and wonderful conversation
We spent the next few days enjoying our host’s incredible ability to cook (remember, he’s a chef. If you haven’t read about food in this area, check out my 6 Things to do in San Sebastián article). Jauma turned basic fare into delicious meals. His neighbor is an organic farmer who raises a specific breed of beef that is local to only this region (the Betizu breed) and we had hamburger patties, fresh cut french fries, incredible tomatoes and fresh bread two nights in a row because it was so delightfully simple and tasted like “real food” compared to the beef and tomatoes we have here at home.
Fresh bread in this area is…. a thing. It is everywhere. You can stop at a petrol station and grab a fresh loaf out of a basket while you pay for your gas, no need to go to a grocery store, the bakeries deliver fresh bread everyday to even the most random pitstops.
Jauma also made us an hors d'oeuvre with Idiazabal cheese, roasted peppers, quince and prosciutto, all locally sourced and all superb. The sweetness of the quince (an apple jelly substance of sorts) in opposition to the sharp taste of the Idiazabal Cheese (a Basque goat cheese) was a pairing of flavors one should try at least once in their lives. I have even found an import company that imports these items though shipping is a hefty fee so I have not yet placed an order. If you are a cheese freak like me check out this website to dream and drool (and invite me over for a taste!).
We enjoyed visiting with our long-time friend and didn’t want to leave, even though Barcelona was calling. We toyed with the idea of adjusting our reservations but in the end, it would have been too costly.
Goizueta offered the perfect respite and we now have an excuse to return, next time we want to camp in the Pyrenees.
In the years since I visited, I have considered ways to live there. I’ve researched teaching English and have looked for homes for sale, dreaming of being an ex-pat in my later years or simply owning a vacation home in this region. The dream has been shelved for now but it still whispers to me from time to time. Until then, I will remember our stay in Goizueta with gratitude and an excitement to return someday soon! If you are staying in San Sebastián or Pamplona, I highly recommend at least going for a drive through the countryside or enjoying one of many outdoor activities available to you. You won’t regret it!
I’m including a few websites for you to view if you are looking for dining ,lodging (ranging from houses to rent to camping sites) and endeavors in this general area. There are many outdoor activities for you to explore such as climbing, mountain biking, canoeing and hiking.
*please note: I have a few affiliate links in this article. When you click on the link and book or purchase through the affilate company, I get a tiny little commission. Teeny tiny … like Tea-Cup Chihuahua tiny but I sure do appreciate your support! There is no extra cost for you! Affiliate links help to keep this blog up and running! I ONLY include links to products or services that I believe in.
I hope that you all are able to visit the Basque countryside. Go adventure beyond the reach of the city and perhaps even keep going……..ending up in France (why not!?)!